Brace yourself for the last 5 tracks, plenty to blow your brain wide open
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Firstly we have a small re-stock of one of the most recent cuvées Rosie Red 2022. This is made from a single plot of 70 year old Pinot Noir vines, farmed with biodynamic techniques. Light and delicate with lots of finesse. Drinking very well now but will only improve with time.
Next we have a sparkling Pet Nat 2020 made from a direct press of Gamay and Pinot Noir grapes. White in the glass with a slightly peachy hue, this has an amazing concentration of fruit (apple compote, orange, lemon) and a pronounced mineral edge.
Finally, a re-stock of a wine we had a few years ago. Brun Dore 2018 is a sweet wine made from Pinot Gris grapes that were acquired from a neighbouring grower. This plot was harvested late when botrytis (noble rot) had began to affect the grapes. A cuvée that is unlikely to be ever made again.
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First up we have the latest landings from La Ferme des Sept Lunes. This is the project of Jean Delobre in the Northern Rhône. He makes outstanding reds from the Syrah grape in and around the famous Saint-Joseph appellation. His Syrah 2022 , made from grapes just over the border in Ardèche, is his most ready-to-drink cuvée whilst his more powerful but elegant Pleine Lune Saint-Jospeh 2020 (smokey and savoury) and Halo Sur Le Baudet 2020 (slightly more delicate and fruit forward) are already tasting beautiful but will only get better with time in the cellar. Speaking of which, we have one bottle left of Jean's 2015 oxidative Marsanne / Rousanne at a bargain price, Lunatik Ladyland 2015. Don't miss out!
Not too far away in the Jura, Jean-Baptiste Menigoz has been making quite a name for himself in recent years under his Les Bottes Rouges project which produces wines in the esteemed Arbois and Côtes du Jura appellations. We have just received small quantities of two of his white cuvées and one red. Face B 2021 is a rich and round wine made from the Savagnin grape whilst Léon 2021 comes from Chardonnay grapes in Arbois. I thoroughly enjoyed the latter at a restaurant in Montpellier (where it seemed like every table was drinking a bottle of Bottes Rouge) but it was clear it will keep getting better with time. Whilst the whites should never be rushed, I personally think red wines from Jura are best drunk young so you can really enjoy all that delicate fresh fruit. If you are in agreement then reach for Jean-Baptiste's Ploussard cuvée, Tôt ou Tard 2022.
Manlio Manganaro's latest vintage has also recently arrived. If you are yet to try these sun-kissed wines from the western part of Sicily, now is your chance. He only produces 2 cuvées, both from Grillo grapes (from just 1 hectare of vines!!). The White Label 2022 is the softer maceration, more delicate in its delivery of citrus and herbs, whereas the Grey Label 2021, only made in special years, is a deeper, more complex orange wine with an amazing intensity of stone fruits, smoke and spice. We only receive a handful of bottles of the latter so it's an exciting one for us! With these arrivals, we are also pleased to share some 2021 White Label from our cellar along with one special bottle of Grey Label 2020! We have just heard the sad news that 2022 will be Manlio's last vintage so now might be one of the last opportunities to try these special wines.
I'm aware the focus has been on pretty pricey wines so far so now lets get on to some more affordable options. I always enjoy revisiting some of the more established names in natural wine and falling back in love with their bottles. Nothing provides a better opportunity to do this than with Clos du Tue-Boeuf. The Puzelat family have been making wines in the Loire valley with indigenous yeast and without additions since the 90s and because of this, they have a big cult following. This means wines get snapped up very quickly upon release, especially when the quality is so good for the price. Take for example, Pineau de Loire 2021, classy Chenin Blanc (Pineau de Loire is an old name for this variety in the region) for just £26. For even deeper complexity and added finesse, Le Buisson Pouilleux 2022 is potentially the pick of the bunch. This is sublime Sauvignon Blanc from a 1 hectare plot of vines near Tours. Delicate, complex and will get even better with age. We have a red in stock made from the elusive Pineau d'Aunis red variety. If you are not au fait with this unique grape variety, now is your chance. Hard to grow and low yielding but when it works, it really works! Delicate red fruit and floral aromas along with an exquisite touch of white pepper. A favourite of King Richard III apparently! The Puzelat family also buy grapes from neighbouring organic growers and produce a couple of negotiant wines. These offer amazing value and punch well above their price points. Vin Blanc 2022 is Sauvignon Blanc and Vin Rouge 2022, again slightly wilder, comes from Gamay grapes.
Brand Red 2022 has just landed! This juicy, light and wild red wine is always a big hit at Highbury Library so we are pleased to have the new vintage now in stock. Mainly red grapes (Dornfelder, Portugieser and Cabernet Franc) with a splash of Riesling for good measure, this is the perfect wine to drink from the fridge and a bargain at only £22. We expect this to fly once the sun comes out! The Brand Brother's orange field blend Wilder Satz 2022 has also been flying by the glass at the bar. Another iconic wine still available at a great price.
Over to Alsace where we have a new (old) wine from none other than Yann Durrmann. When Pet Nat Blanc 2020 first landed, it was considered a little too wild for release. After time in cellar, things have calmed down and this sparkling white made from Pinot Blanc and Sylvaner is now drinking very well. A great price too.
And finally, some special bottles to end on from our very own shores. We have received the first wines from Sophie Evans that were made with grapes from her own vines down in Kent. Pinot Noir 2022 (light, peppery red) and Pinot Gris 2002 (peachy, skin contact style) have been made in tiny quantities so we are lucky to get our hands on some. Over in Wiltshire at Domain Hugo, a barrel of juice that usually goes into the traditional method, sparkling cuvée was kept for experimentation and then forgotten about. Later re-discovered with a veil of flor over the juice, this has now been released as a special bottling (only 250 made!) of still white wine (Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Meunier), Two Times a Half 2020. We are holding a couple back to see how this ages.
Right! That's more than enough for now. Plenty of exciting things coming soon too.
Happy drinking!
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If you want to see just how beautiful it is in the flesh, you should probably place an order soon!
For those in the industry (or any other one for that matter), you can get your own at Sticker Mule
]]>With all that in mind, January is the perfect moment to return to the essence. Featured below are three picks from vignerons in the earlier stages of their viticultural journeys who are all making wine close to each other in the south of France / North of Spain. Drinking these in the first couple of weeks of the year has reminded me what I really love about natural wine and whilst there will always be time for those big names from Jura, Burgundy etc, this is what it's really all about! Highbury Library aims to champion young and emerging winemakers and that's what we will continue to do in 2024.
This is the second vintage from Marius Long aka Sense Pressa and the first to be available in the UK. I met Marius a couple of years ago in Barcelona and it was exciting to hear that he would soon be releasing his wines. He comes from a restaurant background in Paris and moved to the village of Padern, working closely with La Voluta. I absolutely loved drinking this medium bodied red from him recently. It's a blend of Syrah and Grenache which gives loads of fresh blackcurrant fruit, delicate spice and a beautifully silky texture. So much character and perfect for the cold weather.
Just down the road in the village of Cucugnan, Jean-Benoit Vivequain and Anna Rubio started their project La Voluta after meeting in New Zealand and produced their first vintage in 2017. I love their concept of never creating the same wine twice. Each cuvée might be a blend of different vintages, grape varieties, parcels or all of the above. Shiraaz 2022 was the standout for us at a recent tasting in London with Jean-Benoit. Another medium bodied red with super-fresh acidity, a touch of CO2 and flavours of cherry, blackberry and spice.
Chateau Baby Girl - Filthy/Gorgeous 2022
Fernando Berry has been importing natural wine to the UK from Spain and southern France for nearly ten years so by now he has developed very strong relationships with some of the most exciting winemakers in Europe. Now he is producing his own cuvées by collaborating with the likes of La Voluta, Clot de les Soleres and Nuria Renom. Filthy/Gorgeous 2022 is made with Macabeo grapes grown by Nuria and taken to the winery of Vinyes Tortuga in northern Catalunya for vinification. After crushing, the juice spent 48 hours on the skins before fermentation. The wine was then aged in a combination of tank and amphora vessels for 1 year. The result is a fresh skin contact wine, golden in colour, with a pronounced apple character.
So there you go, three wines to keep your senses excited as we progress though the bleak month of January.
If like many you are choosing to reduce your alcohol in take this month, we have our favourite non-alcoholic wine alternative back in stock. L'Antidote is delicious concoction of sparkling Gamay juice, herbs and other fruit made by Romain Des Grottes in Beaujolais. We also have a great range of no and low alcohol beers which you can find here.
Happy Drinking!
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This is the winemaking project of Massimo Antonuzi and his partner Patrizia Montanari who live in the village of Latera, Lazio. We are in central Italy, about a 2 hour drive north from Rome.
What struck me initially when we arrived was the lack of vines around the villages. Lake Bolsena, where Cantina Ortaccio is based, is not an industrial wine region. There are however a few famous names in the natural wine world here such as Le Coste (Gianmarco Antonuzi is a relative of Massimo) and Andrea Occhipinti. On the first evening, we dined at a restaurant called Lanuorino in the nearby town of Montefiascone where we were able to try many of the local natural wine names for very reasonable (i.e. non-London) prices. I would definitely recommend a visit if you are ever nearby.
The next morning we went to meet Max at his home and he gave us a tour of his cellar which is directly underneath the house. Whilst his family has lived in this area for many generations (his grandfather was born in nearby Gradoli), Max was born in Rome. He worked in the city as an architect before immersing himself in the wine scene. After working in local wine bars, he opened his own place from 2003 until 2013 when he left to become a winemaker.
(The cellar of Cantina Ortaccio)
In 2005 he started selling natural wine but this was not a new concept for him. As we make the short journey to some of his nearby vineyards, he explains the idea around his Bianco Dritto cuvée. At the age of 14, his grandfather gave him 365 bottles of skin-contact Procanico, one for him to drink on each day of the year (!!!). Every vintage, Max aims to recreate this wine from memory. You can see his passion ignite as he talks of these happy times from his youth. The wine is great as well. I really love the concentrated melon and orange flavours. Maybe a bottle a day wouldn't be so bad??
Next we journey to Max's most serene and picturesque vineyards right on the shore of Lake Bolsena. The Procanico vines (that produce the Bianco Dritto wine) are interspersed with olive trees which adds to the beauty of the site but Max insists they make harvesting more difficult.
(Procanico vines and olive tree by Lake Bolsena)
Finally it's time for lunch so we head back to the house where Patrizia has already begun preparing what turns out to be a serious feast. Pasta with sage, pumpkin and locally foraged mushrooms, beef cooked in red wine and local cheeses are all generously provided whilst we drink current and older vintages of wines from the cellar. All the wines have aged amazingly well, particularly the Bianco Dritto so I make a note to save a few in the Highbury Library cellar for years to come.
(Alex of Wines Under The Bonnet and Max on the shore of Lake Bolsena)
Over lunch Max talks of his time in Rome (he was a season ticket holder at Lazio) and how he made the decision to return to the area he grew up to make wine as his ancestors did. He comes across as a very humble individual with no grandiose expectations. He simply wants to honour the traditions of his grandfather's culture and produce something authentic and honest.
You can see what we have in stock from Cantina Ortaccio here
]]>ROUNDED WHITES
These wines won't scare off anyone not aux fait with natural wine;
Maison En Belles Lies - Bourgogne Blanc 2017 - White Burgundy that we have saved in our cellar for a few years. We drank a bottle recently and it's tasting superb. Perfectly balanced with a textured body and bright acidity.
Sylvain Bock - Ne Fait Pas Sans Blanc 2019 - Another wine that has developed amazingly with some age. All minerals and citrus from this blend of Chardonnay and Grenache Blanc from the Ardèche.
Domaine de la Borde - Naturé Foudre à Canon 2019 Savagnin from the Jura made in the topped up, ouillé style (non oxidative). Pure and precise white wine.
Domaine Lulu - QV d'Etoiles 2018 A blend of Chardonnay & Savagnin from Etoile which is considered by many to be one of the best sites in Jura.
Domaine Overnoy - Vigne Derriere 2019 - Another Jura wine, this time made from ripe Chardonnay grapes. We drank this last Christmas and it was great then so will only be better this time around.
Domaine de l'Octavin - P'Tit Poussot 2020 Last Jura recommendation (promise!), this time from the distinguished Alice Bouvot. A clean and mineral expression of Savagnin from her own vines in Arbois.
Vins Hodgson - Faia 2021 Chenin Blanc from one of the best areas for this grape variety, Rablay-sur-Layon in the Loire valley. Tiny production of this wine so grab the opportunity to taste while you can.
Thomas Batardière - Les Cocus 2020 Another Chenin Blanc from the same area, this time from a rising star of the region. So much texture going on, it's a huge hit for any fans of this grape variety.
De Moor - Bourgogne Aligoté 2021 - Another rare wine, this time from Alice and Olivier de Moor in Chablis. Apple, lemon and floral aromas.
GREAT VALUE NATURAL WHITE WINES FOR CHRISTMAS
Chateau Barouillet - Bergecrac Blanc 2022 - Vincent Alexis in Bergerac makes some of the best value wines around. This white made from a blend of Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Semillon and Muscadelle has lovely complexity and structure.
Complemen'Terre - Circus Melon 2022 - This Muscadet has been a huge hit at Highbury Library in 2023. We have been doing it by the glass for a couple of months and everyone has been loving the mineral nature and crisp, clean finish of the wine.
TOP QUALITY DRY RIESLING
Brand Brothers - Riesling Pur 2021 - Maybe the best vintage yet for this absolute bargain of a wine. The balance and complexity is spot on.
Brand Brothers x Highbury Library - You Are The Riesling 2016 - A special bottle we released for our 5th birthday back in 2021. Showing an amazing mineral character now with extra age in the cellar.
Jean-Pierre Rietsch - Grand Cru Zotzenberg 2019 - Awesome Grand Cru Riesling from Alsace that was aged on the lees in old barrels for no less than 31 months!
Jean-Pierre Rietsch - Stein 2022 - A new arrival from Jean-Pierre, these Riesling grapes come from another of his best plots.
Yann Durrmann - Grand Cru Wiebelsberg 2021 - Staying in Alsace, this is a wilder number (in Yann's signature style) but still showing an elegant side. Again from Grand Cru vines.
Bencze Birtok - Aries 2019 - From one of the best winemakers in Hungary, this superb Riesling from a single biodynamic vineyard was aged in amphora vessels for 2 years. Only 400 bottles produced.
SOMETHING VERY SPECIAL
Le Mazel - Cuvée Mias 2004 - Gérald Oustric is a natural winemaking legend. Many of today's big stars trained with him in the Ardèche. We drank a bottle of this last year and were blown away. Deep and round with a wonderful texture and notes of developed, smokey apricots.
]]>FULL BODIED REDS THAT ARE FAMILY-FRIENDLY!
The last thing you want on Christmas day is a family argument at the dinner table about sulphur levels and farmyard flavours so here is a selection of fuller reds that your Dad will enjoy but so will you;
Chateau Barouillet - Pécharmant 2021 - Pécharmant is regarded as the best part of the Bergerac region. Medium bodied red made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc grapes. Zero sulphur but very approachable.
La Ferme des Sept Lunes - Pleine Lune Saint-Joseph 2019 - Saint-Joseph in the Northern Rhône is a village renowned for some of the best Syrah in the world. This is full but elegant and precise. Made with biodynamic grapes.
Barranco Oscuro - 1368 Las Monjas 2011 - The perfect choice if you are looking for a big red wine with some age. Full bodied with developed fruit but still great acidity to balance. From the first natural winemaker in Spain and grown at 1368m above sea level near Granada. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Grenache)
Purulio - Jaral 2016 - Another red from Andalusia from a winemaker who was very much inspired by Barranco Oscuro. Syrah, Grenache, Petit Verdot, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon. Great value for a deep red wine with some age.
Tenuta Foresto - La IDEAle 2021 - Nizza Monferrato in Piedmont is home to some of the best quality Barbera grapes and this is a great expression. 15% in alcohol but still with very fresh acidity and a delicate complexity. Dark fruits with a touch of leather.
Tenuta Foresto - Acru 2019 - La IDEAle's big brother. This is made from Tenuta Foresto's very best Barbera grapes and aged for longer in old barrels. Powerful but fresh. Tobacco and leather notes but no oaky flavours.
GREAT VALUE RED WINES
Valli Unite - Valli Rosso 2021 - From the first organic co-operative in Italy, medium bodied red wine from Dolcetto and Barbera grapes with an added splash of white Cortese to keep things fresh. Unbeatable value.
Domaine Bablut - Topette 2022 - Light bodied red wine made from Grolleau grapes in the Loire valley. Juicy and fun! Has been one of our biggest sellers at Highbury Library in 2023.
LIGHTER REDS HIGHER ON THE WILD SCALE
When you're sick of the family and want to get back to being you...
Mas Coutelou - Ploutelou 2022 - Jeff Coutelou's tribute to light red wines from the Jura. Made from a field blend of varieties grown near Béziers in the Languedoc.
Les P'Tites Choses - Bibelot 2020 - One of our favourite wines from the last year. A light expression of Cabernet Franc made with carbonic maceration techniques. Perfectly balanced red wine.
Mataburro - Quartet 2022 - Very light blend of Grenache and Mouvedre from Roussillon. Best slightly chilled.
Bauchet - Dazibao 2022 - A new arrival from Beaujolais. Made from Gamay and a mixture of hybrid grape varieties that are being championed by this producer.
Domaine Lattard - Syrah 2021 - Don't let the label full you, this is a wild red with loads of character. Smokey and meaty on the nose followed by a real kick of fruit and a pinch of pepper. Medium bodied.
PINOT NOIR
Everyone's favourite grape variety!
Domaine Dandelion - Rosie Red 2022 - Ultra rare Burgundy from an amazing artisan producer. Pinot Noir grapes came from a single plot of 70 year old vines. Drinking well but has huge ageing potential. No oak flavours or added sulphur.
Domaine Derain - Le Ban 2020 - Another zero sulphur red Burgundy, this time from Saint-Aubain. Medium bodied with a great complexity of fruit, spice and earthy notes. Again, no oak flavours.
Jean-Pierre Rietsch - Pinot Noir 2022 - Great value Pinot Noir from Alsace. Fruit forward with a wild edge.
Jean-Pierre Rietsch - Stierkopf 2020 - Pinot Noir made in Alsace but using the Burgundy clone of the grape. More savoury, less fruity. Medium bodied and great with food.
Yann Durrmann - Rouge de Pinot Noir 2022 - Yann's latest vintage of Pinot Noir. Fresh and fruity with great acidity.
Yann Durrmann - Pinot Noir Sur Schistes 2020 - A back vintage of a cuvée that hasn't been made since. Time in cellar has given this Pinot Noir more elegance and finesse. Fruit-forward.
Tissot - DD 2020 - A blend of Pinot Noir, Trousseau and Poulsard from one of the famous names in the Jura. Medium bodied with amazing concentration of fruit.
Bencze Birtok - Atlas 2021 - One of the best producers in Hungary. Biodynamic grapes from his most prized Pinto Noir vines. Light and herbal.
]]>COMPLEX ORANGE WINES THAT WORK BEST WITH FOOD
Tanca Nica - Soki Soki 2022 (Aromatic skin contact wine made with Zibibbo (Muscat) grapes on the Mediterranean the island of Pantelleria)
Cantina Ortaccio - Bianco Dritto 2021 (A new arrival from Lazio, this is made from Procanico grapes and has a deep but fresh melon and citrus character)
Rietsch - Demoiselle 2022 (Dry Gewurtztraminer from a legendary winemaker in Alsace. Spicy and floral)
marvlaTINDO - Skin 2021 (Skin contact Welschriesling from volcanic soils in Slovakia. Stone fruit and spice notes)
Leisure Wine - We Walked Out in Oolong Rain Far Beyond the City Lights 2022 (One of the most unique English wines we have ever tried. So many different flavours going on, this is a great partner for aromatic Asian food. Made from a hybrid grape called Muscaris)
Pivnica Cajkov - Intacto NV (Another Slovakian orange wine similar to a Gewurtztraminer. Dried rose, apricot and spice.)
EASY DRINKING ORANGE WINES THAT DON'T NECESSARILY NEED FOOD
Pivnica Cajkov - Princess 2022 - (Session orange wine with apricot pastry-like character. Made from a grape variety called Pesecka Leanka. Has been a huge hit at Highbury Library in 2023)
Tenuta Foresto - Favonio 2022 (One of our favourite skin contact Moscatos. Fruity and floral but very elegant with a beautiful texture)
Tenuta Foresto - Leuto 2022 (Cortese from Piedmont with a great intensity of peach skin and melon flavours)
Durrmann - Zegwur (Iconic skin contact Gewurtztraminer from Alsace. Less spicy and more tropical fruit but with a dry, mineral finish)
Leisure Wine - The Morning Unfolded Like Apricots Along a Role of Developing Film 2022 (A blend of Muscaris and Chardonnay from Herefordshire with flavours of Apricot and Lychee. Vinified on the Old Kent Road in London)
Brand Brothers - Wilder Satz 2022 (Made from a field blend of grapes in Pfalz, Germany, this is the go-to bottle that won't break the bank. Usually more of a white wine, the 2022 vintage has more skin contact which adds a savoury layer of complexity to all that fresh fruit and zippy acidity)
Happy Drinking!
]]>SPARKLING WINE MAGNUMS
Laherte Frères - Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature NV - High quality Champagne made with sustainable practices. 100% Chardonnay grapes
Chateau Barouillet - Splash! 2022 - Very light and easy drinking white Pet Nat from Bergerac. Made from Semillon grapes.
RED WINE MAGNUMS
Barranco Oscuro - 1368 Cerro Las Monjas 2005 - Big and bold red wine from the first natural winemaker in Spain. Nearly 20 years old but showing great acidity alongside dark and developed flavours. A blend of international grape varieties; Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Grenache & Syrah all grown at close to 1400m above sea level in Granada.
La Grapperie - Adonis 2021 - Light but intense Pineau d'Aunis from the Loire Valley. Red fruit flavours with the grape variety's classic note of pepper.
Mataburro - Totem 2022 - Light to medium bodied blend of Mouvedre and Grenache from an excellent winemaker in Roussillon, south of France.
Mataburro - Quartet 2022 - Very light red from the same producer which works very well chilled. Mouvedre & Grenache.
WHITE WINE MAGNUMS
Podere Pradarolo - Ex Alba 2020 - Somewhere between a white and orange wine. Skin contact Trebbiano from Emilia-Romagna
ROSÉ WINE MAGNUMS
Mataburro - Mura Mura 2022 - A blend of red and white grapes from Roussillon. Juicy red fruit from the Grenache and Merlot, perfumed and floral notes from the Muscat.
Happy drinking!
]]>CHAMPAGNE
Ruppert-Leroy - Les Cognaux 2017 - The bottle we are most looking forward to opening this Christmas after saving a couple to age in the cellar for a few years. 100% Pinot Noir made with no added sulphur. Natural Champagne!
Vouette et Sorbée - Blanc d'Argile 2018 - Bertrand Gautherot's wines are some of the most sought after in Champagne. This cuvée is made from biodynamic Chardonnay grapes with minimal sulphur use.
Laherte Frères - Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature NV - Always one of our best selling sparkling wines as it punches well above its price point. Made from 100% Chardonnay grapes and also available in magnum.
Bourgeois-Diaz - Champagne Cuvée RS 2018 - Rosé Champagne made with Meunier grapes from Marne. Fruit forward but great complexity of minerals and herbs.
CHAMPAGNE STYLE
Jean-Pierre Rietsch - Crémant d'Alsace 2020/2021 - Is it even Christmas without the penguin fizz? This wine has a cult following and is always one of our biggest sellers at this time of year. A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Auxerrois. Also available in magnum.
Domaine Overnoy - Cremant du Jura Blanc 2018 - Cremant with some nice age from Guillame Overnoy in the Côtes du Jura. A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Les Granges Paquenesses - Cremant du Jura NV - Very well made sparkling wine from Tourmont in Jura. 100% Chardonnay.
Domaine Schaeffer-Woerly - Cremant d'Alsace 2020 - Amazing value Cremant from Maxime Schaeffer-Woerly in Dambach-La-Ville, Alsace. Made from a blend of Pinot Gris, Auxerrois and Pinot Blanc grapes.
Barranco Oscuro - Ensayo de Burbujas 2018 - Sparkling wine made by traditional method at very high altitude on the south side of the Sierra Nevada near Andalusia. Electric acidity even with 5 years of ageing. Again, great value.
Clos Lentiscus - Rosé Brut Nature 2018 - Pink Sparkling wine made in the Champagne style using Tempranillo, Sumoll & Carignan grapes. Crunchy, red fruit flavours and nutty aromas.
Domaine Hugo - Hugo 2019 - The best English sparkling wine we have ever tried! Rich and round but with the acidity to match. Made with biodynamic grapes from Wiltshire and zero added sulphur.
Charlie Herring - Promised Land 2014 - A unique chance to try skin contact sparkling Riesling from Hampshire with no less than 9 years of ageing.
PET NATS WITH BODY & TEXTURE
Tanca Nica x Nino Barraco - NB x TN 2021 - One of our wines of 2023 for sure! A unique collaboration which involves Tanca Nica adding its Passulata to Nino Barraco's Catarratto to produce something very special. One for the wild crowd!
Bodega Clandestina - Ancestral Confiscat 2020 - Clean and pure sparkling Xarel Lo from Alt Penedès in Catalunya. We really love the body and texture of this wine that comes from the extended lees ageing. More of a Champagne-style Pet Nat.
Partida Creus - XL 2019 - Another Catalan, sparkling Xarel Lo. A great balance of fruit and savoury notes.
Domaine Dandelion - Pet Nat 2022 - Pinot Noir & Gamay grapes produce this white Pet Nat from the amazing Domaine Dandelion in Burgundy. Made in tiny quantities.
Vins Hodgson - Chalan Polan 2022 - Sparkling Chenin Blanc from Mai & Kenji Hodgson in Rablay-sur-Layon in the Loire Valley. This is arguably one of the best locations for this grape variety to express itself. Pet Nat with no added sulphites.
Melaric - Myriades 2020 - Textured Pet Nat that drinks more like a Champagne-style sprakling wine. Made from Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc grapes from in Saumur Puy Notre Dame, Loire.
Fernando Angulo - Campeonisimo Ancestral 2015 - Incredibly unique wine from the Sherry region in Andalusia. This is savoury and mineral with a complexity that has developed in the 8 years since these Palomino grapes were harvested.
Bencze - Petillant Blanc 2022 - Fresh and mineral Pet Nat from one of our favourite producers in Hungary. Made from a blend Chenin Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc grapes.
Joan Rubio / Tiques - Monastrell Ancestral 2019 - Pink Pet Nat from Joan Rubio in Penedès, Catalonia. Delicate red fruit with a savoury edge
GREAT VALUE SPARKLING WINES
Chateau Barouillet - Splash! 2022 - One of our best selling Pet Nats. Very light and easy drinking. Great as an aperitif and also available in magnum
Ramon Jané - Tinc Set 2022 - Another cult classic. Ramon's Pet Nat that uses the classic blend of Cava grapes can't be beaten for value.
Happy Drinking!
]]>This is our collection of bottles to finish a festive meal with. Sweet wines are highly underrated in this day and age but we think this might change soon. Whether you want to pair with cheese or dessert, pick one to be part of your celebrations this year with our guide;
THE ULTIMATE CHOICE
This is without a doubt, our number one sweet bottle pick. From the remote Mediterranean island of Pantelleria, this wine made from Zibibbo grapes (the local name for Muscat) is one of the most unique we have ever tried. Fermented on the skins and then left outside in glass vessels for part of the year, it displays an amazing complexity of both sweet and savoury flavours along with a wild, smokey finish. This style is the original and most traditional of the island and although it demands a high price point, it definitely won't disappoint. Works for both cheese and sweet desserts. Only 500 bottles produced.
BEST VALUE FOR MONEY
Chateau Barouillet - Monbazar 2021
At the other end of the price spectrum, offering great value for money in a full 75cl bottle is a blend of Chenin Blanc, Muscadelle, Semillon and Ondenc from Vincent Alexis in Bergerac. He calls this cuvée Monbazar as it offers a unique alternative to the famous Monbazillac dessert wine made nearby. Great with desserts that aren't too sweet and even very rich, savoury dishes.
NEXT LEVEL SWEETNESS
Andalusia in southern Spain is famous for its sweet Pedro Ximenez but these are usually mass produced and lacking in character. This expression from Verdevique in the Alpujarras is quite the opposite. Rich and complex wine that suits the sweetest desserts and is especially good poured over vanilla ice cream.
SOMETHING DIFFERENT
Podere Pradarolo - Frinire di Cicale 2019
Finally, a unique bottle from Parma in Emilia-Romagna, Italy. We are a huge fan of the natural wines from Podere Pradarolo, especially this expression of the Malvasia di Candia Aromatico grape variety. Perfumed with notes of dried Apricot, this makes a great partner to a fruit-based dessert that isn't too sweet.
Happy Drinking!
]]>THE ULTIMATE CHOICE
Domaine de la Borde - Vin Jaune 2012
Jura is one of the most renowned regions for oxidative wine, mainly thanks to its specialty Vin Jaune. This is a rich and opulent white wine made from the Savagnin grape variety in barrels that were not topped up. As wine slowly evaporates, this leaves space for a bacterial layer of dead yeast to form on top of the surface of the wine. This is known as flor and it imparts unique flavours and texture to the wine. To use the term 'Vin Jaune' (yellow wine), the wine must be aged for a minimum of 6 years under this 'veil' of flor. We have been keeping this 20212 vintage from Domaine de la Borde in Arbois Pupillin for a few years in the cellar. Pair with Comté cheese and walnuts for one of the most amazing taste experiences you are ever likely to have.
THE NEXT BEST THING
For a 'baby Vin Jaune' option you can go with Domaine de la Borde - Les Ecrins 2016 which has been aged for 4 years under flor. Slightly more affordable and still plenty of body, richness and complexity.
Les Dolomies - La Chaux 2018 is another Jura option but this time using Chardonnay grapes. Much less intense on the oxidative side but that doesn't take away from the complexity.
Not a million miles from Jura, La Ferme des Sept Lunes - Lunatik Lady Land 2015 is an amazing, oxidative expression of Marsanne and Rousanne grapes from the Northern Rhône. We have aged this unique natural wine for a couple of years now which has taken the complexity to another level. Great value for money too.
ONE OF A KIND OXIDATIVE WINES FROM THE MEDITERRANEAN
The Sherry region of Andalusia in southern Spain is another region famous for oxidative wine. Fernando Angulo in Sanlucar de Barrameda has garnered quite a reputation for himself by producing unfortified oxdiative wines only when flor naturally occurs. He uses nothing artificial to encourage this process and if the veil does not develop, he produces sparkling wine instead. Fernando Angulo - La Charanga Flor 2021 is an example of one of the successful flor years. A unique sherry style wine without the alcohol fortification. Saline with flavours of almond and citrus.
Barranco Oscuro is a winery in the eastern part of Andalusia near the city of Granada. Manuel Valenzuela is one of the first natural winemakers in Spain and has been creating unique and exciting bottles in the Aplujarra since 1984. Barranco Oscuro - XP NV is 4 vintages of Pedro Ximenez made under flor, blended together. For us this amazing and unique wine sits somewhere between a white Jura wine and a top notch fino sherry. Very good value for such a special cuvée which makes a great accompaniment to fish.
Finally, we head to Sicily for an example of how Marsala used to be! Nino Barraco - Catarratto Altogrado 2015 is an unfortified style of the famous wine which was common prior to the explosion of the UK export market. Made from overripe Catarratto grapes, you expect dried fruit and nutty flavours. Another special bottle for the winter season.
DIPPING YOUR TOE IN OXIDATIVE WINE
All of these options display mild oxidative characteristics. Umami notes and developed or 'bruised' fruit notes will be present but they aren't front and centre of the experience. Good bottles for those who are new to this style of wine.
Chevassu - Chardonnay Sous Voile 2018 (Another Jura option with lighter savoury notes)
Clos Lentiscus - Perill Blanc 2020 (Xarel Lo from Penedès in Catalunya with flavours of lemon, lime and green olive)
Constantina Sotelo - Flor de Sotelo 2018 (Unique and complex Albariño from Rias Baixas made under a layer of flor)
Happy drinking!
]]>(Manuel Valenzuela amongst his vines)
The plot is 1368 metres above sea level yet just 10km from the sea. These unique conditions produce unique wines. Hot days and cool nights bring a balance of ripeness and acid which is not always easy to achieve for winemakers. It also makes Manolo's wines very age-worthy. As we first enter his home, I notice cabinets surrounding the entrance full of old bottles from his early vintages all with amazing hand written labels. 40 years of winemaking history up in this remote part of Andalusia.
I've come with my friend Alba who owns the Al Sur De Granada shop and she knows Manolo very well through years of selling his wine and paying him regular visits. The pair have a warm and honest relationship, almost like father and daughter. Alba kindly acts as translator for me but Manolo keeps getting frustrated with her for not letting him finish his long passages before she gives me the English version. "You are talking for 5 minutes, I can't remember the whole thing!", she replies.
(Alba running some grape tests)
Manolo is now 80 years old but you would never guess it. He's fully mobile and active in the vineyard and winery. As he takes us down into his cellar he begins to go into chapters of his long lasting beef with the wine authorities of the region. He is not part of the DO here so is not allowed to write grape varieties or the region on the bottle. He sometimes produces a rosé wine with a Salmon on the label and "Swimming against the current" written underneath in Spanish. He claims that the local authority even wanted to sue him for this as they took it for slander.
(Manolo in the cellar)
To say he has a strong belief in what he does is an understatement. This attitude helped inspire a whole generation of winemakers in the local area such as Ramon at Bodega Cauzón and Torcuato at Purulio but also much further afield. Manolo even mentions that the famous Beaujolais 'Gang of Four' sought advice and knowledge from him decades ago in the early days of the natural wine revolution.
It is incredible to see all the old bottles that Manolo has kept in the cellar, something that is not always that common with winemakers. He never releases his cuvées until they are ready and explains that making wines in a totally organic and natural way at this altitude sometimes means you must wait years before the wine is in the right place but he is more than happy to do this. He pulls out old bottles for us to drink at lunch so he can see where they are in their journey.
Alba and I have brought fish from Granada which is barbecued outside along with various vegetables but the real food highlight comes from some boquerones (anchovies) that Manolo has marinated in vinegar as well as some of his own oxidative wine. Incredible. We drink his 2017 champagne method sparkling wine but Manolo decides it is still not ready for release. Then he opens a bottle of his 2001 signature wine 1368 Cerro Las Monjas. A blend from the plot of grapes he first planted in 1984, this is a powerful red wine but it still displays so much fresh acidity. Alba tries to let Manolo know that he doesn't need to open such special wines for us but he quickly dismisses this. The wine keeps flowing, oxidative, sweet, everything!
(Lunch at Barranco Oscuro)
Manolo talks in long sentences that often integrate 4 or 5 topics at the same time, some of which are quite philosophical. Alba sometimes looks at me bemused at how to translate such a winding and complex narrative. "He is now talking about astronauts so I'm not going to translate this", she quips. His energy and passion is on display at every moment. At one point he swipes through dozens of photos of restaurant dishes that he has enjoyed recently, passionately describing each one to me. He explains that despite his age, he is still so excited for what is to come. He lies awake at night unable to sleep because ideas for new projects flood into his mind. I tell him that I find this inspiring for someone at his age and he begins to recount a story of when he told his doctor that he drank 2 litres of wine a day, including a bottle for breakfast, and she couldn't understand his good health. He proclaims that he will die in his vineyard when he is ready and certainly not in a hospital.
(Cerro Las Monjas vineyard, 1368 metres above sea level)
Now it's time to see those vines. The building is surrounded by his vineyards but he wants to show us the one with the highest elevation, the Cerro Las Monjas plot. "To the sky!" he announces as we jump in his car. The view and sensory experience up here at 1400m above sea level is amazing. The Mediterranean is just about visible through the hills below to the south. When you look west you can make out some of the famous villages of the Alpujarras across the valley such as Lanjarón. You are surrounded by vines of international grape varieties such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Imagining Manolo up here 40 years ago making his first plantings leaves a real impression on me.
(View from the 1368 Cerro Las Monjas vineyard towards the Mediterranean Sea)
Before we leave he gifts me with a bottle of oxidative Sauvignon Blanc, made under flor from the year 2000. It has no label and has never been released. A piece of Manolo's winemaking history. When the time comes to open in, I hope I will be taken right back to this magical part of Andalusia and to this day when I was lucky enough to interact with a special and unique human being.
(Manuel and one of his dogs)
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We currently have two vintages from the 1368 Cerro Las Monjas vineyard. Powerful red wines made from Merlot, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.
1368 Cerro Las Monjas 2005 Magnum
We also have Manolo's sparkling white wine made by tradional (Champagne) method using the local Vigriega grape variety. With some good ageing now, this offers amazing value for money
Finally, a very special oxidative wine made from 4 different vintages of Pedro Ximenez grapes. This is dry and savoury and drinks like a white Jura wine. Incredible.
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My friend Alba who owns and runs the Al Sur De Granada wine shop offered to set up the visit and she was horrified when I suggested 3pm as a time to meet up with Ramon. "3pm is a very strange time to arrive to a place, sorry" she responded. "Especially in the south, it's almost rude to arrive at that hour". So after her helpful correction, 5pm was agreed.
(The sandy town of Graena)
Ramon lives in the tiny village of Graena on the northern side of the Sierra Nevada, about a 45 minute drive from the city of Granada. The landscape here is a basically an orange, sandy desert. I meet him at his bodega and we sample some of the latest wines that have been in tank for around a month. We then go into a large cellar where pallets of wine wait to be exported to various markets. Down here we try some older bottles. It's great to see how far his wines have come over the years. They still have that undeniable character of Andalusia but now with more precision and balance.
(Tasting wine at the Bodega)
Ramon worked as a chef in Catalunya before deciding to return to the village of Graena where he was born. His family cultivated vines here for many generations and he remembers how comforting it felt to come home and work this land. He helped out at the iconic Barranco Oscuro in the Alpujarra on the other side of the Sierra Nevada and was inspired by the revolutionary winemaker there, Manuel Valenzuela. As I listen to his stories and taste more wine, I realise I'm running out of time to check into my strange spa hotel nearby. I suggest we meet up later in the evening and Ramon insists we go out for dinner.
(Late afternoon in Graena)
A couple of hours later I head back to Ramon's and we jump in his car to go and take a look at the vines. As we drive slowly towards the vineyard through the red rocks that remind me of West Texas, he explains that the name Cauzón means something along the lines of "land of sand" in Arabic which reflects the long history of Moorish rule in this part of Spain. His neatly arranged vines sit in a single 6 hectare plot with a solar powered well in the middle of the vineyard. We have come at the perfect time as the sun is setting and projecting a golden glow across the vines.
(The vineyards of Bodega Cauzón)
Ramon has a wide range of both international and local grape varieties. Some he decides to make single varietal wines with whilst others are blends. He only produces one white wine, Cauzón Blanco 2022, which is a field blend of Chardonnay, Macabeo, Viognier, Grenache Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc. It is always one of his most popular cuvées with a great balance of fruit concentration and acidity. My current favourite of his red wines is Lozano 2021 made from Merlot grapes. Full bodied but with soft tannin and again, that fresh acidity.
After leaving the vineyard, we make our way to the nearby town of Guadix to a restaurant called Vinoteca El Refugio which is housed in an old bomb shelter from the days of the civil war. We are sat next to a mural of a map of the local area that shows where each winemaker is situated. Ramon enthusiastically talks me through each one. He is treated like a local celebrity here which is great to see. They have dozens of wine availble by the glass (all by Coravin) including a couple of Ramon's. It's inspiring to see how he has put himself on the map here in the most unlikely of conditions.
If you ever want to taste a little slice of this special part of Andalusia, you only have to reach for one of Ramon's bottles!
]]>When he first made the move, Charlie worked with Cati Ribot in her cellar in Santa Margalida. He produced his own wines under his new Jugo Vins label as well as assisting Cati with her Ve d'Avior project. Recently he has re-located further West to Santa Maria where he has some space within '7103 Petit Celler'. For new winemakers here, one of the main challenges is access to organic vineyards as they are relatively few and far between. Working out of this well-established organic winery gives Charlie access to some of the oldest organic Mantonegro vines on the island and he is also now closer to Palma where his CAV. wine store is located.
We arrived early one morning to the small village of Santa Margalida with a beautiful backdrop of mountains that separate this region of the island from the sea close to Deià. Charlie was already at work cleaning the outdoor area that stores his fermenting grape juice. We tasted all the recently tanked wines and talked about life pre-Jugo Vins.
Charlies was working for importer Caves de Pyrenes in London but dreamt of making wine. Spain was the primary choice, in part because of the lower start up costs. Charlie's partner Lauren has a connection to Majorca with her mother being born here so it seemed like the appropriate choice. It has taken him a while to navigate some of the local practices and the business politics but every year is getting better and you can see that in Charlie's wines.
I love the simplicity and honesty of the Jugo cuvées. Charlie is new to winemaking and he isn't trying to hide that fact. Instead it feels like we are being welcomed on the journey with him. Each vintage has more precision, direction and intensity. The wines are still very well priced and the message behind each bottle always seems to be "enjoy me!". In this sense, they seem so true to their place of origin. Unpretentious island wines to be experienced by anybody and their friends. And they make even more sense on a boat...
We currently have Charlie's light and juicy Molt Bo 2022 in stock. This is a red wine made from the local Mantonegro grape and has a strong red cherry character
Also we were lucky enough to get our hands on some litre bottles of his Pillow Talk 2021. This is a light blend of Syrah and Mantonegro and is very hard to come by now so don't hang around!
]]>The sun-soaked island of Sicily boasts a remarkable array of wine styles that reflect its diverse terroir and rich winemaking traditions. From the complex, volcanic reds of Etna, to the deep and intense Marsala, a fortified wine with centuries-old history, Sicily's wine repertoire is captivating. The indigenous grape varieties like Nero d'Avola, Catarratto, and Grillo contribute to red, white and skin contact wines that embody the island's unique character. With a resurgence in quality-driven viticulture, Sicilian natural winemakers are crafting wines that balance tradition and innovation, offering a taste of the island's varied landscapes and cultural heritage in every sip.
We currently have 3 quite different expression of Sicilian Grillo in stock;
Marco De Bartoli - Vignaverde 2022 - Youthful and fresh white wine from one of longest running organic wineries in Sicily. Salty peaches with a candied lemon finish.
Manlio Manganaro - Grillo Bianco 2021 - Delicate but complex white wine made with a little skin contact. Manlio is a very small scale producer in Campobello di Mazara, Marsala.
Nino Barraco - Bianco G 2021 - 100% organic Grillo grapes from one of the island's most esteemed producers. More on him shortly.
In the north-western part of the island between Trapani and Palermo, Alessandro Viola produces fresh and elegant wines thanks to the cooling influence at this elevation. We currently have the following in stock;
Alessandro Viola - Note di Rosso 2020 - A juicy red blend made from Nero d'Avola, Nerello Mascalese and Perricone. Medium bodied with a floral and herbal edge.
In the Western town of Marsala, famed for its long history of exporting fortified wines to Britain, natural winemaker Nino Barraco is doing something different. He wants to showcase the region's ability to produce terroir-driven wines that represent a more authentic take on Marsalan culture. We currently have the following in stock as well as the previously mentioned Bianco G 2021.
Nino Barraco - Catarratto 2021 - A rich and round natural wine with a smoked apricot and mineral character
Nino Barraco - Catarratto Altogrado 2015 - A very special bottle from the cellar. Marsala how it used to be! Very ripe grapes were selected and aged in chestnut barrels for 7 years that weren't topped up. This deliberate oxidative winemaking technique results in a deep and intense wine with dried fruit and nutty flavours.
The lesser known and remote Pantelleria is nestled in the heart of the Mediterranean Sea between Sicily and Tunisia. Known for its rugged beauty and unique geographical features, the island boasts a diverse landscape of volcanic craters, thermal springs, and striking coastlines which in turn produces some highly unique wines. Pantelleria's history is rich and layered, influenced by a mix of cultures including Phoenician, Roman, and Arab civilizations.
Zibibbo, the local name for Muscat (Moscato) is the speciality of the island. Natural winemakers such as Marco Bartoli, Tanca Nica and Gabrio & Giotto Bini regularly use skin contact techniques but this can create a range of different styles. We currently have the following expressions in stock;
Marco Bartoli - Integer 2021 - Complex, textured orange wine with apricot, citrus and a refreshing green note running throughout
Bbirbiciù - Testa di Ghiaca 2021 - A wild orange wine with high intensity of dried fruit and spice. Again, aged in amphora.
Tanca Nica - Terra Forte 2021 - Deep and intense skin contact wine with orange marmalade, bergamot aromas and a savoury finish. Made with zero sulphur.
Gabrio & Giotto Bino - Serragghia Bianco 2021 - Incredibly elegant and precise skin contact Zibibbo aged for 7 months in underground amphora vessels. No added sulphites.
The island is also famous for producing sweet wine from the Zibibbo grape in a style known as Passito. Grapes are dried on racks outside to concentrate sugar levels before the tiny amount of sweet juice is finally pressed out.
Francesco Ferreri & Nicoletta Pecorelli of Tanca Nica prefer to create a sweet wine by an almost forgotten ancestral method of drying the grapes on the warm Soki Soki soil floor in order to achieve further ripeness. They then allow the wine to stop and start fermenting a number of times throughout the year by keeping the juice in glass demi-john vessels that remain outside, exposed to the changes in climate. They call this Passulata and you can grab one of these special bottles with their signature hand painted design here;
Finally, one of the most unique wines we have ever tried. In 2021, Tanca Nica and Nino Barraco joined forces to create a wine dedicated to the history and culture of the the Strait of Sicily, the passage of water between the two islands. Nino's Cattarrato was re-fermented with he aforementioned sweet Passulata to create an incredible sparkling wine with wild and un expected flavours;
Tanca Nica x Nino Barraco - NB x TN 2021
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Nestled within the Nitra wine region of central Slovakia is the village of Čajkov, home to natural winemaker Marek Uhnák and his winery, Pivnica Čajkov. The vineyards span the Caldera hills, a topography formed by the ancient eruption of the Sitno stratovolcano. The top soil here is sponge-like, compact volcanic ash which helps draw in rainwater and encourages roots of the vines to extend deep into the ground. This brings an incredibly strong mineral character to the final wines.
Armed with over two decades of winemaking experience, Marek Uhnák embarked on his vinicultural journey after pursuing oenology studies at Mendel University in Lednice, Czech Republic. Although he initially embraced traditional winemaking, Marek's perspective shifted when he recognised that the true essence of the local terroir could best be captured through minimal intervention methods. This transformation to natural winemaking techniques has yielded remarkable results, as you can appreciate when you open one of his bottles.
Marek's portfolio predominantly showcases single-varietal wines, complemented by a selection of experimental blends that evolve with each vintage. Everything undergo spontaneous fermentation with the majority aged in old oak barrels. There is no filtration, or fining and sulphur is only ever used in tiny amounts when absolutely necessary.
When we first tasted, it was his cuvées made with the Romanian grape variety Persecká Leánkar (Feteascâ Regalâ in Romania) that really grabbed our attention. He produces three skin contact wines from this grape with a range of maceration levels and intensity. We currently have the following in stock;
Princess 2022 - Marek's lightest expression of Persecká Leánkar with 24 hours skin contact. Floral with fresh stone fruit flavours and a pastry-like finish.
Rustical 2021 - A deeper orange wine made with 4 to 10 days of maceration of Persecká Leánkar grapes. The apricot flavours are more developed and there is a complex finish of nuts and honey.
Queen Mom 2021 - The most intense and complex expression of Persecká Leánkar made with 3 to 4 weeks of skin contact. The dried stone fruits are complimented with earthy and spicy notes along with a strong herbal character and a mineral backbone.
We also have a wine from Marek with with the grape Devín. This is a cross between Gwurtztraminer and Rotweisser Veltliner.
Intacto NV - An orange wine with 2 to 3 weeks of skin contact. Aromatic with some notes associated with classic Gewurtztraminer. Think dried rose, citrus peel and honey.
Cati Ribot is arguably the most prominent natural winemaker in Mallorca. Her dedication to the art of winemaking and her passion of working with local grape varieties have made her a respected figure in the industry. Her winery is called Ve d'Avior and the wines are known for their authentic character, showcasing the unique terroir of Mallorca. With a focus on sustainable practices, she not only produces outstanding wines but also contributes to the preservation of the island's natural environment. Her work has earned her recognition among wine enthusiasts and connoisseurs, solidifying her place as one of Mallorca's most celebrated natural winemakers.
We currently have the following wines in stock;
Malvasia 2022 - White wine made from 100% Malvasia
Son Llebre 2022 - A white blend of Giro Ros and Malvasia
Cambuix 2022 - A red and white litre blend of Escursac, Mantonegro, Gorgollassa, Esperó de Gall, Callet, Callet Negrella
Charlie Prymaka had been working in the wine industry in London and New York before heading to Mallorca in 2019 to study with Cati in her cellar in Santa Margalida. The following year, he started his own project on the island with his partner Lauren Duttenhofer under the name Jugo Vins. The aim is produce easy drinking, fun bottles that can be enjoyed anytime, anywhere. They source fruit from organic vineyards around Mallorca and also purchases fruit from Cati. On top of this, they recently opened a wine bar and shop in the capital Palma called Cav.
We currently have the following wines in stock;
Jugosa Negre 2022 - A juicy blend of Syrah and Moscatel (Muscat)
Molt Bo 2022 - A light red made from the local Mantonegro grape
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We have just received Max Woerly's new releases from his 8-hectare vineyard in Dambach-la-Ville. These wines are bright, bold, and perfect for summer. The lineup includes two new pet nats, his excellent value Cremant, and special cuvées inspired by the 2021 conditions. What better time to share some pictures from our visit in 2022...
(Tasting Max's Cremant alongside a pretzel in one of his highest vineyards)
With roots dating back to 1557, Maxime's family has a deep connection to this historic Alsatian village. After World War II, they started bottling their own wine, departing from selling to local merchants. Max tends to his vines on the eastern slopes of the Vosges Mountains, over solid granite and granitic sandy soils.
(The view of Dambach-La-Ville)
Maxime began converting the family vineyards to organic practices in 2010, and he has recently ventured into biodynamics and zero-input agriculture. His efforts have resulted in beautiful wines, showcasing the region's true character.
(Maxime Woerly pictured on the right)
In the cellar, Max adopts a simple approach to bring out the essence of Alsace. Short and gentle macerations, along with ageing in stainless steel tanks, Burgundy barrels, and large Alsace tuns, result in wines of exceptional purity and balance.
(Back in the town of Dambach-La-Ville, close to Max's cellar)
The Schaeffer Woerly natural wines offer a vibrant taste of Alsace, capturing the spirit of the region's fruit and acidity. These wines are a delightful choice for summer enjoyment, reflecting centuries of winemaking tradition in Dambach-la-Ville.
We currently have the following wines in stock;
Clos du Bernstein Riesling 2018
Happy drinking!
]]>Toni Carbo’s family has been making wine in Penedès for a long time. Before he was born, his grandfather was working for the local co-op and selling to merchants coming from Barcelona. The vineyard we are standing in whilst he recounts all this is called Ermot which is a plot of Macabeo vines that was planted in 1942. There is a small building just visible through the vines which is was known as La Salada (the hidden house).
Toni was born in 1972 and his earliest memories of this region paint a picturesque image of biodiversity and harmonious nature. However, things began to change before he was a teenager when industrial wine production arrived in Penedès. The land was flattened by big companies in order to allow for machine harvesting. Other crops were ripped up to make way for more vines. International varieties replaced indigenous grapes (particularly red) and the land had changed forever. Toni was 15 at this time and had started studying at agricultural school. He was taught that industrial wine production was the only way forward and it was best to use international varieties. The first wine he ever made was from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. It was at this school where he met fellow winemaker Ramon Jané who was just 13 at the time. Toni’s family stopped making wine on and off in the 80s and in 1991, when Toni was 19, although they kept persevering until they sadly made their final vintage (the last family in the region to do so). At this time, Toni was really enjoying viticulture but was getting more depressed over the power that the big Cava houses held. They would have a price that they would buy grapes at from the local growers but then at the very last minute, they would drop the price, knowing there was no other option for these humble farmers. It’s very sad to hear him talk of the negative impact all of this had on the collective spirit of the local community.
By the time he was 21, he had had enough and wanted to start to make his own wine but it wasn’t until 2005 he teamed up with Ramon and his partner Mercè Cuscó to make bottles under the name Mas Candí. In 2009 he tried his first natural wine, a bottle from the Catalan winemaking legend Laureano Serres (Mendall) and he was blown away. Immediately he saw the way forward but Ramon wasn’t exactly convinced. Toni realised that this is how his Grandfather’s wines would have been made; through organic farming, unfiltered and free of additives such as sulphur. Ramon could see how inspired his friend was so encouraged him to set up his own cellar but insisted they would still work closely together. Toni agreed and started his La Salada project where he could focus on making Pet Nats (sparkling wine by ancestral method), field blends and skin contact (orange) wines just like farmers had done in this region for generations before the Cava houses arrived. Eventually Ramon would see what all the fuss was about and move in this direction himself.
Now Toni makes some of the most honest and expressive wines we have ever had the pleasure of tasting. He is maybe best known for his juicy and thirst quenching Roig Boig (crazy red in Catalan) which is made up of 5 red and 5 white varieties (some just table grapes) but also produces incredible skin contact wines from local grapes Xarel Lo (Buffarella) and Malvasia de Sitges (Sota Els Ametllers). The latter’s name means ‘under the almond trees’ and a throwback to the times that Toni remembers when these vineyards were surrounded by other crops but a single almond tree still overlooks this plot today.
For years now, natural winemakers have been telling me that their wines are drunk too young. Many wish they could hold onto their bottles for longer before release but financial pressures mean this is not usually an option. One of the joys of visiting winemakers is that they usually have some older vintages tucked away in the cellar which they are very generously share with visitors. We decided we needed to start saving some of our favourite bottles so we could share them with you!
Our collection of back vintages and hard-to-find cuvées from some of our favourite winemakers, going all the way back to 2004! Look out for wines from Yann Durrmann, Franz Weninger, Domaine de La Borde, Sylvain Pataille and many more
"Can natural wine age" is a question I've heard many times over the years. These bottles will answer that question with an emphatic "YES"!
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Among their most popular wines is the Aries Riesling 2019, which is made using grapes grown in the volcanic soils of the region. This wine is crisp and refreshing, with notes of lime and green apple, and a bright, mineral-driven finish.
Another standout cuvée from Bencze Birtok is their Kéknyelu 2020, a white wine made from the rare, indigenous Kéknyelű grape variety. This wine is rich and complex, with aromas of stone fruit and honey, and a long, savoury finish that lingers on the palate. Only produced in perfect vintages.
For those who prefer red wines, Bencze Birtok also produces a Pinot Noir that is light-bodied and elegant, with flavours of cherry and raspberry, and a subtle hint of spice on the finish. He has also made his first vintage of Blaufrankisch which we were excited to get our hands on as he only made 400 bottles.
Fans of Hungarian wine will also appreciate Furmint 2019 from Bencze Birtok, a white wine made from one of Hungary's most famous grape varieties. This wine is bright and fruity, with notes of green apple and pear, and a crisp, refreshing finish.
Finally, Bencze Birtok produces a Petillant Blanc 2022, a sparkling wine made using the ancestral method. This wine is fresh and lively, with notes of citrus and stone fruit, and a creamy, persistent mousse.
Whether you're a fan of white, red, or sparkling wine, Bencze Birtok has something to offer. With a focus on natural winemaking and sustainable farming practices, the wines are not only delicious, but also a reflection of the unique terroir and rich history of the Badacsony wine region.
]]>We just managed to get our hands on some back vintages from Joan Rubio so we thought it was a great time to share some stories and pictures from various visits to his Tiques winery as we consider his cuvées to be among the best natural wines in Catalonia.
Corentin was born in the non-winemaking region of Brittany in the west of France but went to Anjou to help at a harvest back in 2015 and ended up making Faye d'Anjou his home. He trained with local winemakers and helped out others further afield in the south of the country before being offered his own plot of Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc in 2019. From these vines came his first wines Bibelot and Guadriole (a sparkling red and white blend that was only available in magnum in tiny quantities).
On our visit, it was really exciting to taste so many new cuvées made from additional vines purchased by Corentin. Already in bottle, he has Chenin Pet Nat and more reds to come including one made from Grolleau. The wines exude a sense of honesty and humbleness which I suppose makes sense when you meet the winemaker. He is warm and welcoming without any air of pretence and was genuinely excited for us to try his creations and give our feedback.
The name of the domaine has changed recently to Autre Chose (other thing) so look out for these new arrivals at Highbury Library over the coming months. You won't be disappointed.
(Side note - Visible in this last picture, I noticed some words in French written on the inside of the doors to the winery. They translate as "they lived like children and made many happy")
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