What is Natural Wine, Really?

Now here's a question that comes up a lot. What really is natural wine? 

There is no clear cut answer and in many ways, it is a matter of opinion. Some people have tried introducing a Natural Wine certification, similar to the Organic labelling system. But not everyone agrees on what the exact rules should be.

For us at Highbury Library, natural wine is first and foremost made from grapes grown without the use of artificial pesticides, herbicides or fungicides. Harvesting is done by hand rather than machine, in order to protect the quality of the fruit. In the cellar, the wine should ferment naturally, using yeasts naturally present in the air instead of commercial chemical yeasts (think sourdough vs store bought bread). Finally, the winemakers should use no fining or filtration and use of sulphur should be minimal or avoided totally.

What does this mean for a drinker though? Most of the time it results in wines that are more expressive and have different, purer flavours that you sometimes don't encounter in conventional wine. Also they don't usually give you as much of a hangover (trust me - this is battle tested time and time again). It also means certain flavours which you're taught at wine school are "faults". One example is volatile acidity (Sometimes shortened to VA). Ever had a delicious sour "funky" orange wine? It's likely that it's because of VA. The more that these "faults" (which aren't actually negative, it's a matter of taste) are present, the more we describe call these wines "wild". This is why we've created The Wild Scale: 1 indicates a wine more on the classic tasting side, up to 5 for the most "funky" or "out there" styles.

Here are some examples of wines we offer for each step on the scale...

Wine at 1/5: Vé Rosé 2023 is a Provence Rosé that is made naturally and without filtration but tastes like Provence Rosé - good for the summer days (if you add ice I won't tell anyone). Bourgogne Vezelay Blanc Galerne 2023 is a delicious, affordable white Burgundy - white peaches, round texture, balanced acidity. Good with friends but good with the in-laws too.

Wines at 2/5: Rietsch Cremant d'Alsace 2022/2023 - so delicious my friend ordered 60 bottles for her wedding in June. Crisp and slightly toasted like a champagne without the price tag. Bubbles aren't just for birthdays! Domaine Hugo Two Times a Half 2020 is the only still wine ever made by one of our favourite English winemakers. Two half barrels (lightly oxidative style) made this mineral but complex English white. Tiny quantities only!

Wines at 3/5: Starting to be difficult to pick, as we have so many! I drank Valette Macon-Chaintré (Non-Vintage) recently, and it was absolutely stunning. A white Burgundy gone wild. It's not quite "funky" but close. You get a rich wine, full of candied citrus and an amazing round texture. Clos du Tue-Boeuf La Guerrerie 2021 would be a solid pick for an upcoming barbecue. It's 90% Côt (the Loire name for Malbec) - dark cherry, earthiness, spice. Great with some grilled lamb or a burger.

Wines at 4/5: We're getting into wilder territory here. Cati Ribot Cambuix 2023 litre is a one litre red and white blend, made in Mallorca. £29 for this much wine is a bargain, especially when it is this delicious and fun. Candied cherry, electric berries amd herbal notes. Amazing for a park sesh. Tenuta Foresto Favonio 2022 is a skin-contact (orange) Muscat. I call this the gateway drug to natural wine. Tons of fruit, tons of aromatic flowers, spices. But also wild (a touch of VA). This is how most of us first got into natural wine, and never left.

Wines at 5/5: Not for the faint hearted, but if you like it, you love it. Thierry Diaz Eclipse 2023 is an electric rosé made in the South of France. Have gone back to this wine time and time again - recent tasting notes are sour cherry and apple candy - a staff and customer favourite. Five years old Saint-Lô Les Pouches 2020 is a Chenin made in the Loire valley and tastes extremely complex in its wildness. Textured and alive with notes of herbs, fennel, citrus and honey. These wines often need time to reach their full potential, and we've held this one back. Definitely jump on it!

Until next time, happy sunny barbecue drinking!