Chenin my Love

My doctor often tells me this -- "One Chenin a day keeps the doctor away". Feels like my doctor doesn't really want me to visit him that often. Maybe it's the new NHS strategy to reduce costs? Something to do with one of our recent governments? I don't know much about politics, but this feels like it would make sense.

So, so, what's this Chenin anyway? Chenin Blanc is a grape variety grown in quite a few places, but most famously grown in the Loire valley region, in France. It's also famously grown in the South of France and in South Africa.

I recently heard in a podcast someone saying that it is likely that Loire Chenin Blanc is the favourite grape of many younger, "new to the game" drinkers over white Burgundy, for example, because Burgundy and many other classically appreciated wines are now too expensive because of the high demand. In Chenin, you're going to get the finesse and complexity of a White Burgundy without the price tag. Appealing isn't it?

So let us find some Chenin, shall we? Doctor's orders!

Château Barouillet, Bergecrac Blanc 2023: Arguably my favourite entry level wine. Made down in Bergerac (inland from Bordeaux), this is a blend of Chenin with other grape varieties. Fresh, round, lightly fruity but also crisp. At £20, I don't think you can really do better.

Philippe Delmée, Les Ch'nins On Boit Et La Caravane Passe... 2021: Andrew and I visited Philippe Delmée in Anjou a couple years ago. Very nice lovely guy, loves records. 2021 was a fairly cold year in the Loire, so what you get a is an electric, crisp, but full of flavour Chenin. Really interesting profile. 2021 is one of my favourite vintages for Chenin.

Vins Hodgson, Vendange 2022: Something very interesting now. And a bargain too. Made by Joel Wright (one of our wine distributors) in the cellar of Mai & Kenji Hodgson, a very iconic couple making wine in Rablay-sur-Layon (perhaps the best village for Chenin, most famously home to Richard Leroy). £36, but should probably be £50 or £60. A rich, wild, full bodied, expressive and complex Chenin style. Had this around Christmas last year and it blew my mind!

Thomas Batardière, Les Cocus 2022: This is one of those great Chenins that could sit on a natural wine list, or a more traditional wine list. It's a beautiful, classical profile, full of finesse. Oily texture, gorgeous mineral acidity which gives the wine real structure, notes of honey. This wine is worthy of songs, of great dinners. Drink alongside a decadent roast chicken dish, or truffle pasta. It's my favourite style of Chenin. One that'll make Andrew fear I might go to the dark (conventional wine) side.

Thomas Puéchavy, Les Vrilles 2022: Last one for the road. Here, a shameless plug. A wine made by a friend of mine. I do harvest there every year, so my hands are on this wine. This is a stainless steel only Chenin (the wine doesn't go in an oak barrel). Instead of a more traditional round style of Chenin, this one is a lot crisper, and on the fruit - minerals, candied lemon, green apple. And... he's a really nice guy! Used to play in a band, Moriarty.

Lots of wines in small quantities, so don't wait on it! Curious for more? Jump to our Chenin section. Remember, the doctor ordered it!