Legends of the Loire: A Visit to Clos du Tue-Boeuf

If you’ve spent any time browsing the shelves at Highbury Library, you’ve almost certainly laid eyes on the iconic, minimalist labels of Clos du Tue-Boeuf. Run by the Puzelat family in Les Montils, depp in the Loire valley, they are absolute winemaking royalty. Thierry Puzelat was one of the earliest pioneers of the Loire natural wine movement, having learned his craft directly from the legendary Marcel Lapierre. 

In early July, I found myself descending into their family cellar, built by Thierry's father back in the 1960s. This was all thanks to Arthur Peltier (of Peltier Ravineau) who kindly offered to bring us here to meet his extended family (Thierry is his uncle) and show us where he spent so much time developing his winemaking skills. 

(Zoé Puzelat pouring for my friend Tom)

Stepping into the Tue-Boeuf cellar is like stepping into a living, breathing history book. It’s cool, and packed tightly with 400L barrels and clay amphorae. We tasted a few bottles with Thierry and his two daughters, Zoé (28) and Louise, who are now running the estate. This is a fascinating new chapter shaped entirely by the contrasting personalities and skills of the two sisters. Zoé has been involved from a very young age and deeply connects with the wines and overarching philosophy. She has an incredibly calm, wise, and contemplative presence. With their family rooted in this village since the 14th century you might expect her to feel the weight somewhat, but whilst its clearly not an easy job at hand, she seems more than up to the task. When asked about her impact on the wines since she took over, she notes that even after a few years, she doesn't fully feel she has a direct influence on the wines and prefers to let the terroir do the talking.

(Louise and Zoé in their cellar)

Louise, on the other hand, was initially dismissive of winemaking before returning to the fold later on. She brings a much more assertive, vocal energy to the table, seamlessly handling vineyard work and the commercial side of things, including managing the UK market. Louise's sharp, direct business sense perfectly balances Zoé’s quiet, intuitive winemaking wisdom, giving the domain a brilliant blend of focus and soul as they take over the reins from Thierry.

(Arthur of Peltier Ravineau)

Whilst Thierry departs to tend to some tractor business, we move into another part of the cellar where white wines are ageing in barrels. I get a chance to talk in further depth to the sisters and see how warmly Arthur interacts with his cousins. Zoé speaks candidly about just how difficult each vintage is and explains that it's almost like re-learning winemaking every time. The challenges of climate change are huge and the only positive is that the winemaking community here get closer and closer with each new threat and work as a family to come up with solutions. One day, in an ideal world, Zoé would like to reduce overall production to ease some of the stress. One of the things I love so much about the Clos du Tue Boeuf wines is just how much they vary each year. it always gives me something to explore and discover each vintage. But it's sobering to realise that it is extreme weather conditions that are causing these fluctuations, not just some romantic, artistic interpretation.

Next we move to a tasting room / kitchen in the rear of the building and Thierry rejoins, with a bottle of cold l'Anglore rosé in hand. I explain that it is almost impossible to find these wines in the UK to which he responds with a big grin on his face "It's always possible to find l'Anglore in my fridge!" He comes across as a very playful and positive person and seems to genuinely enjoy having us there. Whilst I'm chatting to Zoé, her eyes light up when I mention how much I love drinking older bottles of natural wine. She says "wait there" and soon returns with the 2016 vintage of the family's Romorantin. I've already written about how much I love this grape variety but this is the oldest I've drunk yet and wow! That opulent fruit has developed into something more mineral and savoury which is complimented by a profound honeyed finish. What a treat. 

(Thierry Puzelat, Zoé and myself in their tasting room)

Spending time with Thierry means getting some of the best, most unvarnished stories in the business. The man does not suffer fools. He recounted a a rumoured altercation with fellow natural wine legend Alain Castex (now sadly departed) at the funeral of Marcel Lapierre, where Castex inexplicably punched Thierry, apparently unprovoked. Thierry, naturally, threw one back. Immediately afterward, Alain grabbed Thierry's head, sighed, and said "We are so silly," and they made up on the spot. Zoé looks on in shock and I ask "have you not heard this story?!". "There are so many", she says. Thierry’s fiery streak extends to London, too, a city he openly dislikes. He told us about a massive argument he got into with a rigid doorman at a tasting event at which he was appearing. The scuffle ended with the winemaking icon being asked to leave the building and therefore unable to return for the second day of the event.

"One more bottle" announces Thierry as he heads off to the cellar. He comes back with a 1995 red and explains that it was the first wine he made without sulphur. It comes from vines planted in 1937 and the bottle looks nearly as old. Just a tiny portion of the label is still intact. Despite a small hint of cork taint, the wine was vibrantly alive, the fruit still singing after three decades. With only two bottles remaining, I feel very lucky to experience that. Now it's time to head off but I leave full of inspiration and can't wait to get back to London to tell everyone how much I love these wines that are still so underrated in our country for a reason I can't quite figure out. 

(A bottle of 1995 red wine from Clos du Tue-Boeuf)

Back in London we received a new haul of wines across different vintages. Here is a quick overview of each

The Reds

La Guerrerie 2022 is a blend of Côt (the local name for Malbec) and Gamay. The most structured of the reds, it finds a great balance of earthy notes, black fruit and acidity.

Rouillon 2023 is a light and juicy blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay (50/50). Further complexity comes from an integrated touch of reduction, think 'struck match'. Great from the fridge. 

La Caillère 2024 is maybe the crown jewel of the reds and certainly the most age-worthy. This cuvée always offers a dark minerality overlayed with an assortment of fresh red and dark fruits. 

Pineau d'Aunis 2025 is the lightest of the reds with flavours fresh raspberry, red apple skin and peppery spice.

The Whites

Frileuse 2024 is a blend of white varieties Sauvignon Blanc, Menu Pineau, Fié Gris and Chardonnay. Usually varying in style across different vintages, I am yet to try the 2024 so don't want to say too much here but it's usually a complex but playful wine that punches far above its price point. 

Le Buisson Pouilleux 2023 is made with the domain's best quality Sauvignon Blanc grapes that come from a single 1 hectare plot of vines in the village of Pouillé. This is elegant and complex and will keep improving in the bottle for many years to come.

Brin de Chèvre 2022 is another age-worthy white made made from 90% Menu Pineau and 10% Meslier-Saint-Francois, 2 grape varieties that the Puzelats have fought so hard to protect and champion. Slightly more rustic than the Buisson Pouilleux with notes of honeyed citrus fruit, ginger, mint and jasmine.

A few years ago I realised just how well Clos du Tue Boeuf wines age so I I started holding some bottles back in The Cellar. Keep an eye out as we regularly release older vintages.

If you don't yet know these wines, it's time to see why I love them so much...

Happy drinking!